MAKING MAPLE SYRUP OFFERS SWEET REWARDS

Heather Isom explains the various steps of maple syrup finishing and bottling, during a morning seminar at their farm offered through the Iowa Arborist Association.
Larry and Heather Isom’s journey to maple syrup production began with Larry’s father.
By Susan Thompson | Lake Panorama Times

Larry Isom explains to a group of arborists how the woodburning cooker boils off water from the maple sap.
The Isom family has lived in a home on Lake Panorama’s Burchfield Cove since 2005, when Larry was hired by Power Lift in Jefferson as director of engineering.
Their journey to maple syrup production began with Larry’s father.
The beginnings
Larry’s parents, Roland and Laura Isom, lived in California, where Roland worked at a chemical processing plant. As the couple planned their retirement, they decided to move to Iowa.
They purchased a house and large metal building on 13 acres along Highway 25 north of Guthrie Center near Springbrook State Park. One part of Roland Isom’s retirement plan was to make maple syrup.
In 2010, Roland and Larry planted 1,200 sugar maple trees on the land where the previous owner had grazed cattle.

During a presentation Feb. 27, Larry Isom explained the reverse osmosis system he built to run sap through before cooking it. The system reduces the sap’s water content and removes impurities.
Another problem was the deer that came from wooded areas on all sides of the farm to take what they wanted.
“If you look at an aerial map, you can see this is probably the worst place in Iowa for a tree farm,” Larry Isom jokes. “With the Springbrook wildlife area to the east and a church camp wildlife area to the west, the deer pressure is tremendous. Plus, the Middle Raccoon River runs along the south and east borders of the property, which sometimes floods a few acres.”
One good thing about the property, in Roland’s mind, was the huge silver maple trees that line the banks of the Middle Raccoon River. In 2011, he tapped some of those trees to draw sap, then learned the process to turn sap into syrup. For the next five years, he tapped the silver maples each spring and made maple syrup.
Roland retired in 2017 and moved to the farm full-time, joining Laura who had already made the move. He passed away one year later. Larry and Heather purchased the farm from Laura, who still lives in the house. They committed themselves to carrying on the maple syrup family tradition while operating a productive tree farm.
When conditions are right
Sap from any maple tree can be turned into maple syrup. Some people tap maples in the fall, others in the spring.
“You can’t do both,” Heather Isom says. “We always tap in the spring. It’s best to have a hard freeze, then three to five days of temperatures above freezing. That helps the trees start to wake up. We keep our eyes on the 10-day forecast.”

Isom Tree Farm maple syrup is sold in traditional 8-ounce and 12-ounce syrup jars. Pint jars also are available on request.
“When the ground is frozen, moisture is trapped in the tree roots,” Heather says. “As temperatures rise, the sap moves up into the tree during the day, and back down toward the ground at night. We want to catch the sap as it’s going up and down.”
Trees must have a diameter of at least 12 inches at chest height for one tap. Larry Isom uses a drill to make a small hole in the tree.
“Some people do more than just one tap in their trees,” he says. “We tried that, and it seemed we got just about as much sap whether we had one tap or more. We decided the result wasn’t worth the damage to the tree.”
Isom spreads his taps out year to year, rotating around each tree. The hole from a year earlier still can be seen, so he drills the new year’s tap 4 inches to the right. After he has made a full circle around the tree, he will start a new circle 18 inches higher and follow the same pattern.
A plastic tap is inserted into the hole and gently “tapped” in with a small rubber hammer. A tube is connected to the tap on one end and the lid of a five-gallon, food-grade bucket on the other end. Soon, sap is flowing into the bucket.
Sap is collected any day the temperature is above freezing for 24 hours. Heather does most of the sap collection, which takes her about two hours.
“It’s best to collect in the mornings when the sap is cold, for easier storage,” she says. “Sap has yeast in it and can turn cloudy if it gets too warm. We can’t store sap more than three days if temperatures exceed 50 degrees.”
Complicated steps
In general, 150 gallons of sap yields about three gallons of syrup. The steps between collecting sap and pouring maple syrup on a warm waffle are complicated, and precision is required.
First, the Isoms run the sap through a series of paper filters, then through a reverse osmosis system. These steps reduce water content and remove impurities. The sap then is run through another filter before being placed in large pans on an outdoor, wood-fired cooker.
The cooker stands in the middle of a three-wall enclosure. Larry Isom builds a fire in the bottom section of the cooker using wood he cuts, splits and stacks in a nearby shed. Once the cooker is hot, buckets of sap are poured in.
“The wood fire is great,” Larry says. “I pour buckets of sap in as the water level drops. We ladle the sap from the back pan to the front, and eventually end up with about one-quarter inch of sap in the bottom of the front pan. That gets poured into a clean bucket and carried into the building for finishing and bottling.”
“Maple tree sap generally has a sugar content of 1.5%,” Heather says. “We need to get the sugar content to about 66% before bottling.”
The sap pulled from the cooker is filtered again before being poured into a large pan on a propane stove. While Larry manages the outside cooking, Heather handles getting the syrup to the right sugar content, then bottling it.
“The first four years we bottled, we did it in the kitchen,” Heather says. “Since then, we’ve added new equipment that takes much of the guesswork out of the finishing and bottling. We learn something new every year.”
Heather keeps a record book on all aspects of the sap-to-syrup operation, including how many days taps are in trees, temperature ranges for those days, and how many buckets of sap were collected.
“The season for drawing sap ends when tree buds burst and flower,” she says. “Some years we’ve had trees tapped for 11 days, others for 45 days. It all depends on the weather, but 45 days is most common.”
The Isoms usually tap about 180 maple trees, then collect and cook enough sap to fill about 100 jars with maple syrup.
“Some people blend all their syrup together so they have a consistent color in their bottles,” Heather says. “We bottle our syrup in batches as we have it ready. Syrup in bottles filled earlier in the season is lighter and has more vanilla undertones. Later in the season, the syrup is darker and more robust.”
The family business
While the Isoms enjoy the maple syrup part of their family business, other aspects of the Isom Tree Farm are more profitable. In 2018, they planted additional sugar maple trees and a few other varieties. They have a tree spade, which is used to transplant large trees from the farm, plus move existing trees for customers.
They purchase nursery trees each year for resale, which Larry will plant and stake for customers.
Eight years ago, they planted 2,000 pine trees. Last year was their second season offering choose-and-cut Christmas trees from their fields. They also sold Balsam and Fraser pine trees, which don’t grow in Iowa. Heather creates and sells fresh green wreaths, porch and table pots, grave blankets and other items made from fresh greenery.
Right now, Larry and Heather are busy making maple syrup. The Isom Tree Farm maple syrup is offered in three sizes and has a loyal following.
“I usually just post on Facebook when the syrup is ready,” Heather says. “We have a regular list of family and friends who always want some, and we get new people every year. We always sell out pretty quickly.”
Grandpa’s Tree
One of the huge silver maples the Isom family taps has been dubbed “Grandpa’s Tree.”
“It’s on the southwest end of the property and gets the most sun,” Larry says. “It will produce five gallons of sap each day and is one of the trees Dad always tapped in the five years he was able to make maple syrup.”
“Larry’s dad, Roland, got us hooked on making syrup. He started with tubes and orange juice jugs,” Heather says. “It’s been nine years doing it without him, and we have learned so much. It’s amazing what a love of trees does for the soul.”

These are the four steps Larry Isom uses to tap a maple tree. A drill makes a small hole in the tree. A rubber hammer sets the tap in the tree. Sap starts to drip from the tap. A plastic tube is connected to the tap and the bucket, where sap is collected.
































