Pop in a few pumpkins, decorative squash and gourds for a bit of fall flair.

By Melinda Myers | Special to Lake Panorama Times

Add some immediate and long-term beauty to the landscape with fall plantings. The soil is warm and the air cooler, making it easier for plants to adapt to their new location and more comfortable for gardeners. 

Replace fading annuals and fill voids in the garden with pansies, snapdragons, ornamental kale, stocks and other cool weather plants. Use cold hardy pansies that provide color in the fall garden, survive most winters, and come back blooming in the spring just as the snow melts. Pop in a few pumpkins, decorative squash and gourds for a bit of fall flair.

Create or purchase container gardens filled with fall favorites. Set them by a front entrance or on a patio, balcony or deck. Gardeners will enjoy this last bit of color, and the pollinators will enjoy the nectar and pollen as fall fades to winter.

Consider making a few permanent changes with perennials, trees and shrubs. Use them to enhance an existing landscape or replace those that have outgrown their location or were damaged by this summer’s storms, extreme heat and drought. With the warmer soil and cooler air, plants are less stressed and establish more quickly. Give new plants plenty of room to reach their mature size. Small transplants will eventually grow to large specimens. Temporarily fill the voids with annuals for immediate results. Each year, fewer are needed as the plants grow.  

Plant trees so the root flare, the place where the roots curve away from the trunk, is even with or slightly above the soil surface.  Dig a hole the same depth as the distance from the root flare to the bottom of the rootball. Make the hole two to five times wider than the rootball. Roughen the sides of the hole and backfill with the existing soil. Water thoroughly and spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch over the soil surface, keeping the mulch away from the tree trunk.

Follow a similar planting procedure for shrubs. Plant them so the crown, the place where the stems meet the roots, is even with the soil surface. Be sure to keep the mulch away from the stems.

Make sure all plantings are properly watered throughout the fall. It takes perennials, trees and shrubs several years to become fully established.

Call 811 at least three business days before digging. Wisconsin residents can also file online at www.DiggersHotline.com and people in any other state can visit https://811beforeyoudig.com/811-In-Your-State/. This free service will contact all the utility companies who will mark the location of their underground services in the work area. It’s an important step to reduce the risk of injury and the inconvenience and expense incurred if an owner damages a utility and does not make the call.  

Plant daffodils, tulips, hyacinths and other bulbs in fall for extra color next spring. Add them to perennial and mixed borders. Start planting spring flowering bulbs after the nighttime temperatures hover between 40 and 50 degrees. Be patient since waiting until the soil cools reduces the risk of early sprouting that often occurs during a warm fall.  

Set the bulbs at a depth of two to three times their height deep. Check the label for recommended spacing specific to the type of bulbs. Then cover them with soil, sprinkle on a low nitrogen slow-release fertilizer, working it into the top few inches of the soil, and water. 

If critters are digging and eating the bulbs, plant the ones they tend to ignore. Daffodils, hyacinths, fritillarias, alliums, snow drops and grape hyacinths are a few to consider. Otherwise, protect animal favorites like tulips and crocus with repellent, chicken wire or bulb cages at planting. Then in spring, apply repellent as the bulbs burst through the ground.

Take advantage of the fall weather and often slower gardening time to add beauty to the landscape with fall planting. It will reduce the workload next spring and provide welcome color throughout the growing season. n

 

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including “The Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition” and “Small Space Gardening”. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” streaming courses and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV and radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine. Her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

By Melinda Myers | Special to Lake Panorama Times

Whether gardening indoors or outdoors, gardeners are likely to encounter powdery mildew on one or more of their plants. First, a white powdery substance will appear on the surface of leaves, stems and flower petals. As the powdery mildew expands and covers the leaves, it blocks sunlight from reaching the leaves inhibiting photosynthesis. As the disease progresses, it develops structures that enter plant cells to obtain nutrients. It usually is not fatal but severe infestations can cause plant leaves to yellow, twist and discolor and the plant may decline.

Several closely related fungi are responsible for the group of diseases called powdery mildew. Different species of powdery mildew fungi attack different plants. If the weather conditions are right and the various fungi are present, gardeners may find powdery mildew on a variety of plants in their landscape or indoor garden.

Watch for powdery mildew on azaleas, crabapples, dogwoods, lilacs, photinia, roses, coral honeysuckle vines and other trees, shrubs and vines. Check beebalm, dahlias, peonies, phlox, zinnias, cucumbers, squash and other susceptible plants in gardens. Indoors, especially during the winter, monitor African violets, begonias, ivies, jade and kalanchoes that may develop this disease.

Unlike many fungal diseases, powdery mildew fungi need high humidity not wet leaves to develop. Their spores also form in high humidity and are distributed when the humidity is low.  

 Powdery mildew is more likely to occur on indoor plants growing in low light with poor air circulation and cooler temperatures near 70 F. Although the disease is more common in winter the disease can occur anytime these conditions exist.

Reduce the risk of powdery mildew by keeping plants healthy and avoiding overfertilization. Provide plants with the needed light and other preferred growing conditions. Properly space landscape plants and avoid overcrowding plants, indoors and out, to provide sufficient light penetration and air circulation.

Water new plantings thoroughly and often enough to keep the roots moist. Gradually reduce the frequency to encourage the plants to develop a robust root system. Continue to water established plants thoroughly as needed during dry weather.

Further decrease the risk of this disease with a bit of spring thinning on phlox and beebalm. Remove about ¼ of the phlox and beebalm stems in early spring to allow more air and light to penetrate the plant. This strategy will encourage sturdier stems and discourage disease problems.

Select mildew resistant varieties of these and other plants prone to this disease. Resistant plants are not immune but are less likely to develop the disease than those that are not.

Practice sanitation by removing infected leaves and plant debris where the fungal spores overwinter. As temperatures rise above 60F the spores may begin to germinate.

With proper care and sanitation healthy perennials, shrubs and trees, especially those infected late in the growing season, will return the following year. Masking the diseased foliage with a somewhat shorter plant is one way to enjoy the flowers while dealing with the disease. If opting to treat the disease, select the most eco-friendly product, apply it at the first sign of the disease and repeat as directed. As always, read and follow label directions.  

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including “Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition” and “Small Space Gardening”. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” streaming courses and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV and radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine. Her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

By Melinda Myers | Special to Lake Panorama Times

Some like it hot, and that includes the spicy heat of hot peppers added to entrees, beverages and desserts. Others value hot peppers for their help with pain relief and other health benefits. For those who can’t stand the heat, proper pepper selection, care and preparation can help turn down the heat as needed.

The spicy heat of hot peppers is measured in Scoville Heat Units (SHU) named after Wilbur Scoville. The heat units were originally determined by a panel of individual tasters. Chili peppers were ground and added to a sugar-water solution. The solution was continually diluted until the panelists found the solution no longer burned their mouth. Each pepper was assigned a number based on the amount of sugar-water solution needed to reach that point. Today, a more accurate, less subjective high-performance liquid chromatography method can be used for measuring the pungency of hot peppers.

Poblano and Siracha rate between 1,000 to 2,500, jalapenos up to 8,000, cayenne and Tabasco can peak at 50,000, Thai peppers 50,000 to 100,000, and habaneros up to 350,000. Some of the hottest peppers include the Carolina Reaper at 2,300,000, Dragon’s Breath at 2,500,000 and Pepper X at 3,180,000. For a bit of a surprise, try Shishito peppers where only one out of 10 peppers are rated at 1,000 or higher SHU. The only way to tell which one is hot is by taking a bite. To enjoy the citrusy flavor of habanero peppers but not the heat, grow the All-America Selections winner Roulette.

Ornamental peppers are edible as well as pretty. Most will rate anywhere from 10,000 to 50,000 SHU. Chilly Chili ornamental pepper produces an abundance of attractive yellow, orange and red upright fruit on 10-inch to 12-inch plants. As the name suggests, they have almost no heat.

Weather influences productivity and the heat in peppers. They grow and produce best when day temperatures are 70F to 80F and night temperatures are 60F to 70F. Cold, heat and drought are the most common cause of blossom drop, misshapen fruit and a poor harvest. When summer is filled with long, hot days, hot peppers tend to be even hotter.

Harvest most hot peppers when fully mature and red for the strongest flavor. Green chili and jalapeno peppers are harvested when green. And some, like jalapeno, habanero and Anaheim, are hot whether they are harvested when green or red.

Label hot peppers when growing, harvesting and storing them. Many sweet and hot pepper varieties look similar, and confusing the two could be unpleasant. Consider planting them in separate spaces in the garden to further avoid misidentification and keep a glass of milk handy in case you need to neutralize the sting.

If desired, the heat of peppers can be turned down when preparing favorite recipes. Most of the capsaicin that gives hot peppers their heat is in the white membrane that houses the seeds, so removing this along with the seeds will provide the flavor with less heat.

Wear rubber gloves and avoid touching your face and eyes when working with hot peppers as they can burn. Wash your hands, utensils and cutting boards when finished. 

Adding hot peppers to your meals will also provide many health benefits. Use them fresh and can, freeze or dry the surplus to enjoy later or share with family and friends.

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” streaming courses and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV and radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine. Her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

By Melinda Myers | Special to Lake Panorama Times

 When growing pumpkins, squash, gourds and melons, watch for the squash bug. Its feeding damage can cause leaf spotting, damage to the fruit and in severe cases wilting of the plant.

This insect overwinters as an adult in sheltered locations under plant debris, rocks and around buildings. The ½- to ¾”-inch gray or dark brown adults emerge in spring and begin feeding, mating and laying eggs on plant members of the squash family.

Both adults and immature nymphs move quickly and shelter under the leaves during the day. Female squash bugs lay up to 200 eggs in clusters on the underside of leaves. Look for the eggs, often where the veins meet forming a V, and crush them to help manage this pest. There may be eggs, nymphs and adults on the plants at the same time, so watch for, and be prepared to manage, all stages as needed.

Keep plants healthy as older, sturdier plants are more tolerant of their feeding. Consider growing these plants on trellises where the plant tends to be less susceptible to this pest. 

Manage weeds, remove plant debris and avoid straw mulch that can provide hiding spots for squash bugs. 

Trap these insects by placing boards on the ground near the plants. These insects will congregate under the boards overnight. In the morning lift the boards, collect the insects and drop them into a can of soapy water.

Grow blue Hubbard squash as a trap plant for both squash bugs and squash vine borers. Plant this squash three to four weeks prior to other members of the squash family and at the perimeter of the garden at least several feet away. Both insects prefer the blue Hubbard squash, focusing their feeding on this plant instead of desirable plants. Do continue to monitor the other squash plants as well.

Placing floating row covers over seeds and transplants at planting can help reduce the risk of both squash bugs and squash vine borer. Loosely cover the planting area and secure the row cover edges to keep these pests out. Use this method where these insects were not previously a problem. Remove the cover as soon as female flowers appear for pollination and fruit formation to occur.

Rotating plantings, if space allows, is an excellent way to reduce the risk of these and other insect pests and diseases.  Crop rotation involves growing a series of unrelated crops in the same area over several years. Clean up the garden in fall by removing weeds and plant debris that can provide winter homes for this pest.

Monitor this insect and employ the appropriate eco-friendly management strategies to help ensure an abundant harvest. These efforts will be rewarded with plenty of produce to enjoy and share with others. n

 

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the “Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2^nd Edition” and “Small Space Gardening.” She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” streaming courses and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV and radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine. Her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

By Melinda Myers | Special to Lake Panorama Times

Add color and seasonal interest throughout the landscape with container gardens. Set them in garden beds to add vertical interest, place pots of edible plants on a patio, deck or balcony for convenient picking and include pollinator-friendly plants in containers to attract and support pollinators.

Keep containers looking their best with proper selection, planting and care. As always, select plants suited to the growing conditions and combine those that require the same care and growing conditions. Drought-tolerant plants are more forgiving once established if looking to reduce maintenance.

Consider function as well as beauty when selecting containers. Make sure the container has drainage holes, helping prevent waterlogged soil that can lead to root rot. If the pot lacks drainage holes, try double potting. Place plants in a pot, like a nursery pot with drainage holes. Set this pot on a layer of pebbles in the pot that lacks drainage holes. The pebbles elevate the pot of plants above excess water that may collect. Check throughout the growing season and pour excess water out of the decorative pot as needed.  

Fill containers with a quality potting mix that provides adequate drainage yet retains moisture. Every gardener seems to have a favorite or more often struggles to find one that works best for them. Check the label to see what the bag contains and recommendations for its use. Planting mixes usually contain peatmoss, coir and or compost as well as vermiculate, perlite or rice hulls for drainage. Check to see if it is sterilized to kill weed seeds and pests.  

Proper watering and fertilization are key to keeping plants alive and healthy. Check the potting mix daily and water thoroughly as needed for the plants growing. Reduce frequency with the help of self-watering containers with water reservoirs that provide water over a longer period. Mulching the soil in containers helps to conserve moisture and irrigation systems with timers make it much easier.

Fertilize planters as needed. A slow-release low nitrogen fertilizer used at planting and again as needed and according to label directions can greatly reduce time spent fertilizing. These fertilizers provide small amounts of nutrients over a longer period. Those who prefer to be a bit more hands-on can use a liquid fertilizer applied regularly throughout the season according to the label directions.

Despite a gardener’s best effort, insects and diseases can impact the health and beauty of planters. Regularly check plants for any signs of insects, their damage and disease. Early intervention makes it easier to manage the problem and helps minimize the damage.

Remove small populations of insects and discolored leaves by hand. Use a garden hose and apply a strong blast of water to help dislodge aphids and mites. Follow this up, if needed, with an organic lightweight horticulture oil like Summit Year-Round Spray Oil (SummitResponsibleSolutions.com). These products kill the insects they contact but won’t harm beneficial insects that land on a plant that has been treated. It is also effective against powdery mildew and certain other diseases. As always, read and follow label directions for the most effective and safest control.

Adjust container garden designs and maintenance to boost their beauty with minimal effort. Then enjoy a growing season of benefits these planters provide. n

 

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the “Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2^nd Edition” and “Small Space Gardening.” She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and was commissioned by Summit Responsible Solutions for her expertise to write this article. Myers’ website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

By Melinda Myers | Special to Lake Panorama Times

Enjoy the fresh-from-the-garden flavor of homegrown tomatoes. Grow one or more in a container, a dedicated vegetable garden or plant them with flowers in garden beds.

Purchase transplants from a local garden center if not starting plants from seed at home. Check the tags and select varieties suited to how they will be used. Grow bite-sized cherry, plum or cocktail tomatoes to use in salads, on relish trays and for snacking. Include a few paste tomatoes, like Romas, with meatier fruit for making sauces and soups. Don’t forget about slicers, like Big Beef, Beefsteak and Better Boy, to enjoy on sandwiches, grilled, or on their own.

Prepare plants that will be moved from under lights indoors or a sunny greenhouse to the growing conditions in the garden. Start the hardening off process one to two weeks prior to planting outdoors. Stop fertilizing the plants and move them outdoors to a shaded location. Each day, increase the amount of direct sun the plants receive. Be sure to cover or move the plants indoors whenever there is a danger of frost.

Once hardened off and the soil is prepared, it is time to plant. Carefully slide the plant out of the container. Gently loosen the roots of pot-bound transplants to encourage them to grow into the surrounding soil. Remove any flowers or small fruit, allowing the plant to focus its energy on developing a robust root system and a more productive plant.

Plant tall, leggy plants deeper to encourage roots to develop along the buried stem. Dig a trench, remove the lower leaves and set the plant on its side in the trench. Carefully bend the stem upright, then cover the portion in the trench with soil and water.

Set stakes and towers in place at the time of planting to avoid root damage. Training tomatoes keeps the fruit off the ground, reducing insect and disease problems. That means more fruit to harvest and enjoy.

Train tomato plants on to stakes for an earlier, but smaller harvest than those grown in cages. Grow plants with less effort in sturdy towers or cages. There will be more tomatoes to pick, but a bit later with this method. Plants left sprawled on the ground yield the largest harvest, but many fruits are lost to disease, insects and gardeners’ feet.

Shorten the time to harvest and help manage weeds with the help of floating row cover, clear plastic or cloches. Use these to cover the properly prepared planting space a week or two before planting. Once the soil is warm, lightly cultivate the soil to kill any weeds that have sprouted. Do not dig deep, which brings more weed seeds to the surface to begin growing. Use row covers or cloches to protect plants from early season cold temperatures and frost.

Further shorten the time to harvest by planting early ripening varieties, like Early Girl, Fourth of July, and Fantastico. Check the catalog description or plant tags for the number of days between planting and harvest. Growing these or other early ripening varieties means you will be enjoying fresh tomatoes sooner.

Always water plants thoroughly when the top few inches of soil are crumbly and moist. Avoid overhead watering which increases the risk of disease. Instead, apply water directly to the soil surface, using a watering wand, soaker hose or drip irrigation. Extend the time between watering and increase success with mulch. Spread a two-inch layer of shredded leaves, weed-free straw, or evergreen needles over the surface around plants. This will conserve water, suppress weeds, and improve the soil as the mulch decomposes.

With proper planting and care there will be a bounty of tasty, garden-fresh tomatoes to harvest and enjoy.

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the “Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition” and “Small Space Gardening.” She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” streaming courses and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine, and her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.